Japan – Sake

Sake is a traditional Japanese fermented alcoholic beverage, which is made of rice. It is not clear when sake production began but there are mentions of a beverage that was consumed that caused people to sing and dance in ancient Japanese manuscripts that date back to the 3rd century. It wasn’t until the 8th century that sake can be properly identified. Sake production was a government monopoly for a long time, but in the 10th century, temples and shrines began to produce sake, and they became the main centres of production for the next 500 years. During the Meiji period, laws were introduced that allowed anybody with the money and know-how to enter sake production. It is thought around 30,000 breweries producers appeared within a year, however, the government gradually levied more and more taxes on the sake industry and slowly the number of breweries dwindled to 8,000.

While it is often referred to as rice wine, sake is not actually wine at all. In fact, the process of brewing sake is more similar to that of brewing beer. But unlike beer, which often includes added hops, rice is the only grain used in a true sake. Sake is made by brewing special sake rice, water, and koji, which refers to a mould allowed to grow on the grains of rice. The person who brews sake is called a Toji and, like wine, they can alter the production and fermentation process to make a unique final product. The job of Toji is highly respected in Japanese society where they are considered artists with the title traditionally being passed on from father to son.

Traditionally, sake is drunk out of square, cedar wood boxes called masu, or small cups called ochoko that are made of porcelain or glass. It is now acceptable to drink sake from any type of glass or cup, however, drinking it from a wine glass makes it easier to taste the subtle flavours.

Historically, sake was served warm, but as technology has advanced the flavour profiles have changed, producing better sake which is now often served lightly chilled. If you order sake at a restaurant, it might be served warm, but it is often a sign that the sake is cheap and poor quality.

All sakes are brewed from rice, but the quality of any particular sake depends on how much the rice was milled down before being brewed. The process of milling, or ‘polishing’, of the rice is to remove unwanted protein and fats on the outside of the rice grain which add unwanted flavours to the sake. Polishing leaves just the concentrated starch from the centre that can be converted to sugar to be fermented. Using just the pure starch allows for a smoother flavour in the final sake. The rice used is not the same as the rice that we eat. It is a larger variety with less protein and much harder (to withstand the polishing process without breaking) which makes it unpalatable as an eating rice.  The amount of polishing is called the ‘polishing ratio’. This means that if 30% of the grain has been removed, 70% of the grain remains, therefore, the polishing ratio is 70%. After polishing, the rice is soaked to prevent splitting before the rice is steamed. After steaming a special mould (koji) is sprinkled on the rice which causes the starches to be turned into sugars for fermenting. These moulds are part of the Toji’s skill as they are prepared by each sake brewery which adds unique flavours and textures to the sake. After 5 to 7 days of this initial fermentation period, water and the wine yeast culture, Saccharomyces cerevisiae, is added to begin the alcoholic fermentation. This takes 15 to 21 days during which time further steamed rice with mould and water are added. This is done to allow the yeast growth to keep up with the expanding volume of rice as it absorbs water. The yeast has evolved to withstand higher alcohol than those used in grape wine, hence, after fermentation is complete, the sake is between 17 and 20% ABV. Fining is not needed but the sake is filtered and then pasteurised before being matured (conditioned) for nine to twelve months to soften and mellow. After which, some quality sake is diluted to 15% ABV with water before being bottled. Cheaper sake often has distilled alcohol added before being diluted to increase the volume which tend to be course with little flavour and character. 

Most sake is made in one of two styles, either fruity and floral or savoury and umami. Sakes can also be either full bodied or light bodied. Pairing food with sake can be as complex as wine. As with wine, it depends on the style, flavour and body of the sake. Fuller bodied sake can go well with braai’d ribs, rich and creamy sauces or grilled salmon. Lighter bodied sake can pair well with sushi, mild goat cheese or oysters. As with all wine, pairing with foods that are from the region can work best. Try pairing with foods that have a savoury saltiness, similar to traditional Japanese foods made with soy sauce or miso (a fermented paste made from soya beans).