Facts and figures

One hundred years ago, Hungary was one of the most important wine producers in Europe. Every royal court in Europe served the sweet golden coloured wine called Tokaji (say it “tok-eye”). Viticulture began many centuries before when the Romans brought vines, and by the 5th century AD, there were extensive vineyards in what is now Hungary. While Romans brought grapes, it is thought the Hungarians acquired their knowledge and skills in wine making from countries further to the east with a longer tradition of wine making. Nearly every single language’s word for wine derives from the Latin word vinum. There are only three languages whose word for wine does not: Greek (oinos), Turkish (sarap), and Hungarian (bor).

Over the centuries that followed, the quality of white wines was superior as new grape varieties were brought in from Italy and France. During the Ottoman occupation of Hungary, a robust red-wine blend later known as Bikavér (Bull’s Blood), became legendary after the ancient city of Eger was successfully defended by soldiers drinking the wine in 1552. Around the same time, the region of Tokaj became known for the late harvest dessert wines made rare and expensive by noble rot. Tokaji aszú is first recorded in 1571, and Louis XIV of France (1638-1715) gave it the name “Vinum Regum, Rex Vinorum” or Wine of Kings, King of Wines.

In 1699, Hungary became part of the Austrian Empire that caused changes with the introduction of Germanic grape varieties. The wines of Tokaj resisted change and in 1730 it became the world’s first vineyard classified on soil, aspect and propensity to noble rot.

Phylloxera arrived in 1882, severely damaging the industry. Many dry red and white wines were traditional field blends (mixed grape varieties in vineyards that are vinified together) which could never be replicated so were replaced by single varieties like Blaufränkisch (known here as Kékfrankos) and the Bordeaux varieties. In Tokay, Furmint and Muscat replaced the destroyed vines. The twentieth century saw the introduction of modern grapes, which were easier to grow, however, the arrival of Communism meant quality was neglected in favour of profitable high yields and industrial style production. Since regime change in 1989, producers are looking once again at the traditional varieties with a lot of new investment, a strategy that is reaping rewards as the past reputation of Hungarian wines returns.

Hungarian oak is one of the three major types of oak used to make wine barrels, after French and American. Hungarian oak all comes from cool northern forests near the Slovakian border. Barrels were exported across Europe, but Hungary’s communist regime made exports difficult and the trade declined. Hungarian oak barrels can now be found in many wineries across the world and are used widely in Hungarian wine production. The cold, northerly climate makes barrels that give a subtle influence which is beginning to be sought by wine makers looking for more gentle oak regimes.