China – key wine regions

Wine laws in China have yet to fully develop with little protection other than the region of production which are mostly defined by regional political borders. There are Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) areas being developed in areas showing the greatest potential. Exports remain small while production standards for exports must still comply with international markets laws.

Xinjiang Generally, a semi-arid or desert climate prevails in Xinjiang. Ample sunshine during the growing season and broad day and night temperature range help grapes reach high sugar concentration and retain high acidity. Most of areas are extremely dry which helps control disease and rot, but also makes irrigation essential. Drip irrigation is widely used, drawing water from rivers fed by meltwaters from the Tianshan mountain. Xinjiang has a dramatic continental climate with highest temperatures exceeding 40 °C in summer and falling to minus 25°C in winter. Therefore, vines must be buried in the earth every winter for protection from the extreme coldness as they risk dying at such extreme temperatures. The North Slope of Tianshan Mountain produces some of the best wines. this sub-region is at a latitude of 44°N with vineyards at an average altitude between 450-1000metres. Red wines from the region are made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Gamay, Syrah and Pinot Noir. White Varieties include Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Blanc and Chenin Blanc.

Ningxia

Wine grapes have been grown in Ningxia since 1982, when large Chinese wine producers such as Changyu, Great Wall, and Dynasty established vineyards in the region. Although most grapes were sold to other regions for winemaking. In the late 1990’s, the local government of Ningxia started created policies to encourage wine production in this area. A wave of winemakers and investors arrived, including drinks giants Pernod Ricard and LVMH, who were attracted by the generous policies. This encouraged growth as the potential for making good wines of Ningxia was recognised.

Lying in the northwest inland plateau of China, Ningxia is a very dry, desert-like region and features a diverse geography of forested mountains and hills, higher plateaus and flood plains formed by the Yellow River. Drip irrigation is compulsory in this region, due to the scarcity of water, with the Yellow river providing a constant source. Most of the region’s vineyards are found at the east foothills of Helan Mountain, in the northwest of the province. Infertile, well-drained sandy soils are well suited to viticulture. The East Foothills of Helan Mountain is the first demarcated PGI wine region in China. With an average altitude of more than 1000m, this vine growing area has a cool continental climate with hot and dry summers and extremely cold winters. It is also necessary to protect the vines here against the extreme cold of winter by burying them.

Marselan (Cabernet×Grenache) is considered to be the future signature grape of China shows great potential in Ningxia. It has large-sized bunch with small berries, with strong disease resistance, making wines with deep purple colour, high tannin and intense aromas of lychee, nuts and vanilla. Other black grapes include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir. White varieties showing promise here are Chardonnay and Riesling.

Shanxi

Shanxi is an important wine-producing province in eastern China. It covers a mountainous plateau between the western desert and the coastal plain. Shanxi has a continental climate, but is still affected by the East Asian Monsoon, which brings cool, moist air from the Pacific Ocean to the warmer land, causing rain. Most of the annual rainfall occurs in summer when high levels of humidity can promote fungal vine diseases such as mildew. Rains are inconsistent, however, and in years with low rainfall there is generally plenty of sun during the growing season, with warm days and cool nights giving wines a good balance of ripeness and acidity. Cold winter weather from Siberia makes Shanxi very cold in winter which also means vines should be buried for protection. As with all regions in China where this practice is necessary, labour is readily available and inexpensive meaning wines remain relatively cheap, despite this labour-intensive practice. Grace Vineyards is Shanxi’s best-known grower, and one of China’s most highly regarded producers in terms of quality. Its Shanxi vineyards are located on deep sandy soils, with excellent drainage allowing the vines to grow deep root systems, creating healthy vines.

Icewine

One of the success stories of China is the growing production of Icewine. The Chinese have already regulated icewine production which must be made from grapes naturally frozen on vines, and no chaptalisation is allowed. Alcohol levels in icewine must be between 9% and 14% abv, and sugar levels must be above 125 grams per litre, although there are not yet any geographical indications. There are several Canadian companies operating in Xinjiang, Ningxia and Shanxi that are producing wines for the Chinese market which is already Canada’s largest market for icewine. The main variety
used for icewine production in China is Vidal, an Ugni Blanc hybrid.