On the label – producer terms

N.M. An abbreviation of Négociant-Manipulant.  A producer or a person who buys some or all grapes from others and make champagne. Most Champagne houses belong to this category.

C.M. An abbreviation of Cooperative de Manipulant. Cooperatives that make and sell champagne.

R.M. An abbreviation of Récoltant-Manipulant.  Producers who make champagne from their own grapes, most of them are small-scale companies.

The region is best known for the Champagne ‘Houses’ (NM) that have dominated brands for many decades. Many originate from German families seeking their fortune who began by buying grapes from farmers to make the sparkling wines the region was becoming famous for. This structure was hugely successful but did cause problems as the farmers were paid the lowest price possible and kept in relative poverty while the houses became incredibly wealthy. The streets of Reims and Epernay are a glamorous tribute to the wealth created with vast houses lining the Avenue de Champagne. In many ways, the success of Champagne could be attributed to the farmers that, through necessity, planted vines in high density giving high yields to maximise their low income. This practice created grapes that were lacking in concentrated fruit flavours and were picked earlier, to secure a buyer for the grapes, giving the higher acidity needed to make great sparkling wines. Ageing on the lees became essential to add aroma and character to Champagne that was lacking in natural fruit flavour. Change eventually came with the creation of the C.I.V.C. (Comité Interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne) in the 1940’s. The committee was one of the first in France and was created to act in the interests of both growers and producers. Grape prices were controlled, meaning a fairer share of profits to the growers was one of the first acts by the C.I.V.C. It is no longer legal to fix prices in this way, but the farmers grapes still attract premium prices after the houses realised it’s still in their interest. Yields remain high but climate change has caused grapes to be harvested two weeks earlier than previously to retain high acidity.